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New Yorker: 'The Unique Horrors of A.I. Food Slop' on Menus

TL;DR

  • Brady Brickner-Wood's New Yorker essay asks why generative-AI food imagery on restaurant and café menus feels uniquely unsettling.
  • He walks from Victorian still-lifes of lizards on fruit and dead game birds to nineteen-thirties color-print advertising to today's generative approximations.
  • His verdict: computer-generated dishes on menus 'inspire neither gluttony nor lust,' failing the emotional job food photography has always done.

Brady Brickner-Wood's latest New Yorker essay, passed around by a couple of writers on our Who's Who list, turns on one aesthetic question: why does generative-AI food imagery on café and restaurant menus feel so wrong?

He traces the medium back centuries. In the mid-eighteen-hundreds, he writes, "the Victorians shot still-life arrangements of lizards crawling over fruit and dead game birds hanging from a nail." A shift came, he notes, in the nineteen-thirties, when "the introduction of color printing to advertising changed how food was shot on camera, and thus conceived of culturally."

His verdict on today's synthetic plates is flat: "Restaurants choosing to showcase computer-generated approximations of the dishes they serve inspire neither gluttony nor lust."

Shared on Bluesky by 2 AI experts